PETG Filament - Here's what you need to know

Is PLA or ABS not cutting it anymore? Perhaps you need something more durable, or something that can handle higher temperatures than PLA, but is easier to print than ABS? PETG filament might be your next favourite to print with, we know it’s been rapidly gaining in popularity since we launched it. Let’s take a look at what is PETG, why you’d use it and how to print with it.

PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate (think plastic bottles) and the G means it’s been glycol modified for extra durability. In short this is a really tough material, that’s extremely durable and prints without odour. Once you’ve dialed in the correct print settings, it prints nicely too. Here are the main benefits to printing with PETG filament:

  • Very durable, it’s more flexible than PLA or ABS, but also a little softer. You’d have a hard job breaking it in half, so if an ‘unbreakable’ case or enclosure is what you need, PETG trumps pretty much everything (except, Nylon 12).
  • It has very low shrinkage, and therefore no warping. Ideal for printing big stuff.
  • PETG is also very strong, it’s not brittle but can be scratched more easily than ABS which is harder.
  • PETG plastic makes a terrible support structure, because it sticks so well. But because it sticks so well, layer adhesion is fantastic, so prints come out strong.
  • It sticks well to the print bed too, so be careful when you’re removing it after printing.
  • It has a great chemical resistance, along with alkali, acid and water resistance.
  • Odourless when printing.

Typically PETG is supplied in a range of translucent colours, and prints with a nice glossy finish. It makes it ideal for printing anything that needs to be shatterproof or translucent. Many are taking the leap from using PLA or ABS to just using PETG.


Great example of the practical use for PETG's durability. Crash bumper by Otto.

Here are a few data stats about PETG. Please note, these stats are from our own PETG and are not representative of the average:

  • Specific gravity of 1.27g/cm3, that’s just higher than PLA and about 20% more dense than ABS.
  • Rockwell hardness of R 106, which is pretty high for PETG. (Our ABS, which is very hard is rated R 110).
  • Our raw pellets for PETG have been GREENGUARD INDOOR AIR QUALITY CERTIFIED®. This is a certification under license from the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute (GEI), who are an independent, non-profit organisation that test low-emitting products and materials for indoor environments.

Now you know why you’re likely to go for PET-G filament, vs the more traditional materials. It’s nice to print with and produces excellently tough prints that will last. Let’s look at how to get the best results from this underutilised filament, so that you can spend the least amount of time setting up, and the more time producing ultra-durable high use prototypes, models or end-use parts.

Here’s how to print PETG:

As with all 3d printing materials, you need to take note of the specific traits that material adheres to – which issues are caused by what? This always saves head-scratching time when you run a material through your printer the first time, and the results aren’t quite what you expected. This plastic is just like any other, you just need to adhere to the few best practices when printing and you’ll love the results.

Once you’re set up correctly, you’ll find printing with PETG a dream. No warp, odourless printing and great layer adhesion are just some of the excellent properties with printing this filament. Be sure to use a high quality filament and it’s likely you’ll just dial in your temperature settings and you’ll be away. However, as with any filaments there are some pointers to make the new transition easier.

Let’s look at how to get setup correctly, issues to look out for and the tips that’ll save you time troubleshooting.

  1. Setup your temperatures. We recommend printing our PETG at roughly 235C-240C depending on your extruder. The heated bed works best around 70-75C, a few degrees hotter perhaps for those first few layers.
  2. This material doesn’t need to be squeezed onto your heated bed, you want to leave a slightly larger gap on the Z axis to allow more room for the plastic to lay down. If the extruder nozzle is too close to the bed, or previous layer it will skim and create stringing and build-up around your nozzle. We recommend starting off moving your nozzle away from the bed in 0.02mm increments, until there is no skimming when printing.
  3. The Fan: essentially if you want the strongest possible print, print with no fan. The molten PETG will stick to the previous layer ridiculously well. But if you need better detail, and no stringing, you really need to use 100% fan. The rapid cooling after leaving the nozzle will leave your prints detailed, with no stringing or blobbing.

We recommend printing without fan for the first layer or two, and then full fan after that. If you’re still getting trouble with slight stringing and you’re feeling brave, taking the guard off your fan can increase airflow further – but that’s your choice.

  1. Print a little slower, we recommend around 55mm/sec or less, more than 60 and it won’t lie fast enough.
  2. PETG can be sensitive to over extrusion (blobbing etc.) – if you’re experience this, just bring in the extrusion setting on the splicer ever-so-slightly each time until it stops.

It’s likely you won’t have issues with all of these points, but as you can see – just like other 3d printing filaments, each material has its own set of traits to setup for. Once you know the cause of each issue, and how to fix you’ll find the printing consistent time and time over.

Still not sure if PETG filament is for you? Try ordering a sample from your favourite supplier. We also sell our PETG in samples, as well as great value 1KG spools. Click here to see the range.

Cheap filament can be a false economy. All filaments are guaranteed for 60-days – we believe you should only need to print once.

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